Circa 1911 St. Paul, Minnesota

Last weekend, on a snowy Saturday afternoon I was poking around an antique store looking for nothing really, but alas something found me! I found a wonderful 1911 St. Paul Souvenir book.  It contains 50 pages of the beauty of 1911 St. Paul in color! What a treat. When I found it, I knew this special piece of history belonged in a good keeper's hands and shared with the public, not in an antique store where its unique beauty could be easily overlooked among the many other items. Embossed hard-stock paper cover tied with a simple string to hold the volume together.  Entitled Souvenir Saint Paul in Colors. Published by V.O. Hammon Publishing CO. 218 S. Wabash Avenue Chicago. 1911  Inside the prologue reads:

"Saint Paul, "THE IDEAL AMERICAN CITY"

Ideally situated on the lofty wooded bluffs of the Mississippi River, affording glorious vistas, St. Paul is pre-eminently a beautiful city, blessed by nature with every conceivable charm.
In 1841 a humble priest, Father Lucien Galtier, built a rough chapel of logs in the midst of an Indian camp, occupying the present site of the city. He christened the hamlet St. Paul.
The village, so favorably situates at the head of navigation of the Mississippi, rapidly grew into an important trading post; the distributing center of the new, little known Northwest.
With the coming of the westward-reaching railroads, this early trade was augmented and expanded at a tremendous rate.  Gradually the river traffic waned, but the foundations of the dominate jobbing, wholesale and manufacturing business of the present day were secured laid, and Saint Paul has remained commercially supreme.
From such humble beginnings has grown the mighty city of St. Paul, with its 225,000 citizens; the heart of this  vast enormously rich, fertile Northwestern realm.
Saint Paul is the capital city of the mighty state of Minnesota, a state larger than England, Wales and Switzerland combined, and those tremendous widely varied resources are just becoming known.
Nearly one-half of the entire output of iron ore of the unites states is mined in Minnesota. It is also the first state in the Union in the production of flour and grist mill products.
Saint Paul is the largest fur market; is the home of the largest, and also the second largest law book publishing house. The largest wholesale drug company in America is located here.
As capital of the "Bread and Butter" state, Saint Paul is one of the foremost cities in the collection and distribution of butter. It is also the leading city in the West in the production of stoves, saddlery and harness, boots and shoes and railroad supplies.
Saint Paul, "The get away of the Northwest," is the terminus of ten huge railway systems, operating 55,000 miles of main track. The Saint Paul Union depot rail handles 35,000 passengers and over 300 tons of mail matter.
Among the many magnificent buildings in the city, the majestic State Capital Building stands paramount in the point of beauty. Erected on a commanding site, with beautiful approaches, a total cost $4,500,000, it is the finest structure of its kind in America.
The Municipal Auditorium, in quite a different way, is equally noteworthy. It is a mammoth building, a city block in length, and containing one of the largest stages in the world. By means of delicate mechanical devices it can be transformed in less than 10 minutes, and without disturbing the audience, from a huge haul seating 10,500 people, two a beautiful cozy theater with a seating capacity of 3,200 people.
In 1910 the death rate of Saint Paul was the lowest of all cities in the United States. In 1903 the city was awarded the gold medal at the Paris Exposition for being the healthiest city in the world. It's climate is unequaled and its water supply the purest to be found in any city.
The beautiful hills of the city, gently sloping back from the river, furnish exquisite sites for the many magnificent residences which adorn Saint Paul.  There is no fine finer residence street in any American city than Summit Avenue. This widely famous boulevard presents along its many splendidly- kept miles one continuous vista of imposing homes set on fresh green lawns and shaded by great forest trees.
This wonderful natural beauty has also afforded unlimited opportunities for the development of an extensive park system, comprising 76 exquisite parks and 19 miles of delightful parkways.
Few cites can boast of an equal to Como Park- an area of 425 acres, including two natural lakes, glorious expanses of greensward, delightful stretches of woodland, and the utmost perfection of landscape gardening.
And beyond comparison is the charming River Drive, skirting the high bluffs of the Mississippi and affording a most glorious view of the river and its islands many feet below.
Twelve colleges and universities are located in Saint Paul adjoining the city boundaries is the most famous Minnesota State agricultural college, and only three miles distance is the University of Minnesota, recognized far and wide as one of the most prominent of American Universities. The public school system comprises 58 school buildings, In addition there are 31 private and parochial schools.
To the Publicity Bureau of the Saint Paul Association of Commerce the publishers of this book wish to acknowledge the appreciation of the invaluable assistance rendered in the securing of many of the following pictures, illustrating the greatness and the incomparable beauty of Saint Paul. "

This long and linguistic tango of adjectives and verbs was intended to further delight those who weren't completely impressed by the hand colored photographs and sketches of idealistic scenes within the volume.  Without further delay here is St. Paul 1911.

"St. Paul Minnesota, State Capitol Building (Built 1904 and designed by Cass Gilbert.)
Nearly fourteen years the builders worked on the erection of this stately, magnificent structure, which, in pure beauty of architectural design, in dignity and impressiveness, stands unsurpassed by any public building in America. "  Luckily for this state this building has survived and is mostly cherished by those whose job it is to protect her.

"Indian Mounds  A group of historic mounds used as burial places of their dead chieftains by the Sioux Indians.  The central feature of Indian Mounds Park."  This is my neighborhood, located in Dayton's Bluff.   I find it odd that while these mounds are listed as "historic" in this book, there were paths that allowed people to walk all over them.  Sadly as the area was developed into a park in the 1880s many of the old mounds were leveled.  Today a few of the mounds still exist. They are fenced off so that you cannot walk on them, but can be enjoyed in their, somewhat, natural context.

The old City Hospital.  A beautiful structure built in brick and limestone.  It was located on the west side of the city at Jefferson Ave and Colborne Ave.  Sadly long gone to be replaced with a modern building.

"Interior of Municipal Auditorium.  Showing the interior of this remarkable building as an enormous hall a city block in length, with one of the largest stages in the world.  The acoustic properties are so wonderful that a person speaking in an ordinary tone at one end of the hall can easily be heard at the extreme opposite end. "

"Municipal Auditorium. A wonderful, absolutely fireproof building , built by the citizens of St. Paul and presented to the city as a permanent home for public amusement.  constructed entirely of brick, steel and concrete, with not enough wood used to kindle a kitchen fire.  "  Apparently this building did not meet the demands of the growing city because in 1931 a new auditorium was constructed.

Mississippi River and Harriet Island. "Harriet Island is the municipal recreation ground for the city's children.  It is provided with public baths, playgrounds, open air gymnasia and a free day nursery.  The bridge seen further down the river is known as the Wabasha Street Bridge."

" Scene at Minnesota State Fair.  The greatest and largest exposition of its kind in the world.  The extensive grounds crowded with magnificent displays and thronged with happy people, present an intensely interesting spectacle."

"Sixth Street, East from Cedar Street.  The heart of the retail district.  by far the greater part of the fine shops and stores for which St. Paul is noted are located on this imposing street."  Sadly this block today is rather unrecognizable to 1911. 

"The Saint Paul Hotel.  A leading hotel of the Northwest and one of the finest in America.  A modern, million dollar structure, luxuriously furnished and complete in every detail."  This fine hotel is still  here today and was recently ranked as one of the best places to stay in the country.  The exterior still looks as it did, over 100 years ago.  The photo below of the lobby was taken from the St. Paul Hotel website.

"Birdseye View.  Showing the shaft-like office buildings and the main business portion of the city."

"Public baths at Harriet Island.  A bunch of kids having a bully of a time. "  I'm not sure if people would still be so inclined to swim in the river today.

"Mannheimer Brothers Building.   The home of Mannheimer Bros., one of the largest and most widely celebrated dry goods firms of the Northwest.  The shopping center of St. Paul"  All of this is sadly long gone, replaced with concrete pillars in the sky.

"New Roman Catholic Cathedral. Another of the great architectural wonders of the city is this new cathedral - a massive imposing edifice, surpassingly beautiful, occupying a commanding site on St. Anthony Hill. One of the most truly magnificent and imposing churches in America."  The cathedral is a crown of St. Paul and sits on a hill higher than and looking towards the capital building, indicating who were more important than those law makers.  Building began in 1904 and opened in 1915.  Since this book was published in 1911 the building was not finished. The roof in this image shows as white, when in fact it was clad of copper.

"Race Track and Grand Stand at the Minnesota State Fair Grounds.  A most interesting feature of of the state fair is the automobile and horse races.  The mile track shown above is widely celebrated and holds a large number of the world's records.  The new grand stand is built of cement and has a tremendous seating capacity."   A grand stand is still at the state fair, however this one is long gone.

"White Bear Yacht Club. White Bear Lake. Located at Dellwood, a charming summer resort at this popular lake.  White Bear sailors and boats are heartily respected by their racing rivals of the Northwest."  There is still a White Bear Yacht Club at this location, however this fabulous building is gone.

"Seventh Street, East from Wabasha Street. Looking down the hill on a busy retail street.  Some of St. Paul's largest department stores are located on this thoroughfare. " This street today is again unrecognizable.

 "Excursion Boats.  The old time river traffic, which was so influential in the upbuilding of St. Paul, has waned in later years, but on a hot summer day nothing is more delightful than a trip on the old Mississippi.  The levee is located at the foot of Jackson Street. "

"Sixth Street at Night.  This city has the proud distinction of being the first to adopt this ornamental system of street illumination.  It is known far and wide as the "Saint Paul System of Street Lighting"." While this block has all but been lost to history the street lighting system remains and the downtown still has and installs these type of light fixtures.

"Central High School.  In point of efficiency, thoroughness, buildings and general management, the school system of this city ranks with the highest."  What a fantastic brick building this was with the astronomical observatory!  Built in 1883 but was already bursting at the seams apparently when this book was published. By 1912 the school had moved to a new location.

"The River Drive.  The most famous of the city's many parkways, extending along the high wooded bluffs of the Mississippi River, Summit Ave Boulevard to Fort Snelling.  There is not a more charming roadway in America."  This parkway still exists with many walking paths, although perhaps less driven in terms of its scenery. The views still peak through the trees and are magnificent.

"Old Round Tower, Fort Snelling.  One of the most interesting sights at Fort Snelling is this old fort, where, in the early days, the hardy pioneers of Minnesota repulsed the hostile savages.  It was built in 1820.  The largest garrison in the Northwest is now stationed at this military reservation." This old building still survives at Fort Snelling Park and is worthy of a visit.

"Stairway of the Supreme Court, Capitol Building.  Built entirely of different varieties of costly marble brought from France, Greece and Italy.  The mural painting throughout the building are by the greatest American masters."  This same view can be see inside the capitol today.

"Post Office Building. This colossal building occupies a commanding position fronting Rice Park.  St. Paul is the federal headquarters of the Northwest." Thankful this icon of the city remains thanks to local preservation efforts in the 1970s. Today it is known as the Landmark Center.

Photo from Wikipedia.

"Parterre at Como Park.  A good illustration of the expert gardening for which Como Park is justly noted.  From May to September her velvety lawns are resplendent with many such beds of beautiful flowers, skillfully arranges in exquisite designs."  Today Como Park is a beautiful park and while these designs may no longer be displayed in their plantings, it is still a wonderful park to visit.

"The High Bridge.  This wonderful bridge spanning the Mississippi River is 2,773 feet long.  It is peculiarly built on a slant and rises from 63 feet above the river at its eastern extremity to the great height of 176 feet at the western end."  This beautiful bridge lasted until 1987.  Apparently the decorative ironwork on the new bridge was made from iron from the old bridge.

"The Ryan Hotel.  An immense, thoroughly modern hotel, widely known throughout the country.  A recognized center of the city's life and activity."  Oh what a building and speaks for herself! Built in 1882 and demolished in 1962.

Dining room of the hotel from the Minnesota Historical Society.

"State Capitol Building from Central Park.  The beautiful white dome of this noble building is the most prominent object in the sky line of the city. Approaching St. Paul from any direction, its graceful lines first attract the eye of the traveler.  Central Park is one of the prettiest of the smaller parks." The beauty of the park with the capitol at its gate led to its eventual demise.  The area slowly declined and by about 1960,  the great mansions surrounding the park were torn down to be replaced with a parking ramp.  Today absolutely nothing remains of the park or the neighborhood. Hidden under ugly buildings and parking ramps and the freeway.

From Minnesota Historical Society from the 1880s before the capitol was built.

"View of Mississippi River from the River Drive.  Throughout the dense foliage of the trees which crowd the high bluffs, the view of the river at this point is exquisitely magnificent. The Marshall Ave Bridge is seen in the distance."

"Where the Falls of Minnehaha Flash and gleam among the oak trees. Laugh and leap into the valley."  Minnehaha falls which is located in Minneapolis and still remains today, although perhaps not such a large waterfall today.

"Court House and City Hall.  An imposing structure occupying an entire square block in the heart of the business district."  Oh how I wish this building would have been saved! A new art deco building was built in 1932 for City Hall, which in itself is a fine structure and example of restrained deco style.

"Typical residences on St. Anthony Hill.  Set high on the brow of this glorious hill overlooking the valley far below, are many of the finest homes in St. Paul.  The superb Summit Ave Boulevard traverses this hill." I'm happy to report that these fine homes are still here!  Built in 1910 the Goodkind houses were built by the brothers who owned the Mannheimer dry goods store seen above. They built these two houses with an enclosed walkway connecting the two.  A true and expensive gem that remains of the grand old days.

"Gates Ajar, Como Park.  The crowning feature of the beautiful flower displays at this magnificent park.  A triumph in landscape gardening."  First installed in 1894 this exact display is long gone, but there is a gates ajar display at the park which is reminiscent of this design.

"Park Square and Wholesale District.  By far the greatest part of this mammoth wholesale and jobbing houses which have made St. Paul the commercial center of the Northwestern States are grouped about or near this public square." All gone.

"Orpheum Theatre.  A popular theatre.  In the left background of the picture is seen the Post Office Building." Sadly also lost to time in the 1940s and now a park occupies the space.

"Pioneer Press Building.  The tallest building in the State of Minnesota and the city's most important office building. Located on the corner of Robert and Fourth Streets." This beautiful building  that once held the local newspaper offices has survived. Currently being renovated into luxury condos. 

"The Viaduct, Como Park.  A delightful landscape in this enchanting park."  If I'm not mistaken (and I have been known to from time to time) this bridge is affectionately known by the historical society as Bridge No. L-5853 and this beauty survives, yet abandoned and unloved. Built in 1904 it is the second oldest remaining reinforced concrete arch bridge in Minnesota.  Let's hope it can be restored to its glory. Here is a photo of it from SHPO from 1988.  Guess I'll have to see if I can get a more updated photo one of these days.

"View of Mississippi River from Indian Mounds Park.  This park of 135 acres, situated on the high bluffs 200 feet above the Mississippi, offers a magnificent view of a wide stretch of the river and valley.  These beautiful views remain the the park, albeit hidden by trees and shrubs. This is located in my neighborhood, Dayton's Bluff. 

"New Y.M.C.A. Building. In equipment, utility and completeness this fine structure is surpassed by no other build of its kind in the United States. Costing nearly $400,000, which was subscribed in 9,000 individual subscriptions. " Built in 1907/1908 it was the YMCA headquarters until 1984 when they moved.  Shortly thereafter it was demolished for a parking ramp.

"Wabasha Street, North From Fifth Street.  A prominent retail street.  The large red brick building on the left is Schuneman & Evans Department Store, one of St. Paul's best known and most rapidly growing stores." This street is today completely unrecognizable. A victim to a modern, growing city. 

"Summit Avenue.  Widely celebrated as one of the finest residence streets in any American city.  A beautiful boulevard, shaded by superb trees containing the city's handsomest residences."  Luckily this street today is again ranked as one of the finest residential streets in the city. This view remains largely unchanged.

"Robert Street Bridge.  An interesting view showing the Robert Street Bridge, which is one of the main thoroughfares over the river, and the Great Western Railway Drawbridge.  To the left of the bridge is seen the steamboat levee."  This lovely bridge was replaced by a new bridge in 1924-1926 which still exists today.

 "The Rotunda of the Capitol Building.  The materials in this magnificent rotunda are, for the most part, various granites from the different sections of Minnesota.  Immediately overhead rises the stately dome 220 feet in total height. "

"Front View of Capitol Building.  Another view of this imposing structure, partially showing its beautiful approaches."

"Tropical Lily Pond - At Como Park.  One of these big leaves of the Victoria Regia will easily support the weight of a good sized child."  I'm unsure if Como Park still has these in their park or not. I cannot imagine growing these beautiful pads simply for the short summer season.

"Selby Tunnel.  A Notable feat of tunnel construction, built by the street car company through Selby Hill, for the purpose of avoiding the steep dangerous descent of this lofty hill."  This was a memory of many still in the city when riding street cars.  1954 was when the last street car ran in the city for favor of cheaper bus lines.  The tunnel however still remains, blocked up and forgotten by many. Here is a photo of the tunnel today from Streets of St. Paul .

The cathedral seen in the background.

"New York Life Building.  A prominent office building located at sixth and Minnesota Streets."  Built 1889 and lasted until 1967.  

"Germania Building. Located at Fourth and Minnesota Streets.  One of the city's important office buildings." Again lost to the concrete jungle apartment housing in 1970.

"State Fish Hatcheries.  An interesting place established by the state for the artificial propagation of the many varieties of game fish native to Minnesota." Apparently of the numerous ponds for hatching, two are only currently used.  It has been extensively remodeled many times over the years.

So I hope you enjoyed a journey through St. Paul 1911.  

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